"He hath made every thing beautiful in His time: also He hath set the world in their heart,
so that no man can find out the work that
God maketh from the beginning to the end."
Our Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) page is where we post questions that we often are asked about wildflowers and wildflower
seeds. If you have a question that you do not see posted here, Contact Us, and we'll try to help you! Note: the questions
in this list are in the same order as the answers; you may need to scroll to the answer after clicking the link.
Questions about
native wildflower plantings:
Questions about native wildflower seeds:
Answers to Frequently Asked Questions:
Q: How should I prepare my site for a native wildflower planting?
A: This
question is probably the most important question that can be asked in regard to a successful native wildflower planting.
Because of this it is both our first, and most involved question. The number one cause of prairie planting failures is
a lack of site preparation! You cannot afford to underestimate the latent power of weed seeds in the soil, or the vigor
of existing perennial weeds! If you get the site preparation right, you are well on your way to a successful native
wildflower planting.
First, we will look at three basic methods of site preparaion, then we will discuss possible modes
of action on different site scenarios:
Method 1 - Tillage. We have found that a good method on a flat site that
is not prone to erosion is to employ tillage. On a larger site, a plow, disk, or harrow can all be used to prepare
the site. The plow could be used where there is a heavy sod that needs to be cut through and killed. A moldboard plow
will take the top 6" of soil and roll it over, exposing the roots of the weeds, and burying the plants. A chisel plow will break
up the ground as well, but will leave more plant matter on the soil surface. Disking usually follows plowing to level out the
ground and break up the clods. A harrow is used when a lighter scratching of the soil is all that is desired, such as preparing a
fine seedbed for planting.
Smaller sites are usually best tilled with a rototiller, sod cutter, or other garden implements. These
preform the same function as the farm equipment, it is just on a smaller scale.
After the initial working
up of the site, the soil may need to be worked up at two week intervals until the site is ready for planting.
This will do wonders for your site, and greatly increase your chances of a successful wildflower planting. First, it kills virtually
all of the tough living perennials that keep coming back from the roots. Second, it allows a good percentage of the weed seeds
in the soil a chance to germinate and then to be killed in a subsequent till. Third, the open ground over several months allows
different species of weeds their favored germinating time (cool season, warm season, etc). The upside to this method is
that it provides a very good seed bed and is chemical-free. The downside is that it is prone to erosion concerns.
Method 2 - Herbicides. On a site where erosion is a concern due to sloping gound, an application of an herbicide such as ClearOut
or RoundUp may be a more environmentally sound option. Please note that even though an herbicide like RoundUp will kill almost
all of the green, living plants, it will not kill the weed seeds. Because of this, multiple applications of herbicide need
to be used to kill the seedlings that sprout up from these seeds. This method will not eliminate as many weed seeds in
the long run, because only the seeds lying on or near the surface will germinate and be killed. An herbicide
application every six weeks or so in the growing season will free the site from growing perennial weeds and deplete the weed seed
bank in the soil.
Method 3 - Burning. On a site that is open and has a lot of biomass, burning may be a good
option to start the weed control process. Burning can be done whenever conditions permit, and will aid in removing
the bulky plant matter from the site that may interfere with tilliage or herbicide application. Please obtain all necessary
permits, and have the required fire control personnel in place before attempting a burn! Fires are dangerous!
This method will also help deplete the weed seeds somewhat, because a good, hot fire will sterilize the top 1/4 inch of soil.
So, how should you prepare your site for a native wildflower planting? Since every site is different, it
is impossible to give one answer that will cover every scenario, but here are some basic guidelines for various site conditions. Please identify which of the following site scenarios best matches the current conditions of your site. Careful assessment of
the past will aid in determining the correct course of action in the present.
Overgrown area / old hay field / pasture -
Some people think that planting wildflowers is just a matter of adding to whatever grows in neglected areas. Not so! Think
of it as planting a crop, and it will give you a better perception of what you are trying to do. An area that is overgrown
or "left go" presents one of the most difficult scenarios for the establishment of native wildflowers! Over the years (or
decades) the weeds that have grown in this area have dropped millions of seeds! When the site is worked, it will expose these
seeds to favorable conditions for germination. In some way, the seed bank in the soil needs to be taken care of. Many
times this process of depleting the seed bank will take a year or two.
If it is spring, and you have an overgrown
area that you want to plant into native wildflowers, you might consider burning the area first, to get rid of all of the old
plant matter. If this is not an option, then using farm equipment to reduce the site to ground level would be best. Then
you will need to employ tillage or herbicide treatments until fall, at the very least. If you are satisfied that the site is
"tamed", a fall wildflower planting can then be done. It probably would be better to do more weed control in the following
spring, and then plant in later spring of that year. Weed seeds benefit from cold, damp conditions, just like many native wildflowers,
and there is always a "flush" of weeds in the spring when these "stratified" seeds come to the right soil temperature. It is
a good time to do your planting just after this "flush" in late May or early June. The most comprehensive treatment would be
to prepare the site for the entire growing season following (two full growing seasons), and then to do a fall planting.
Mown
Lawn / Turf - It can be easier to get a native wildflower planting going in this type of area than in an overgrown
site, in that the weeds are primarily grasses, and they have not gone to seed because they have been mown. One thing
consider is that even if the site is free of broadleaf weeds, some seeds are wind blown, and can come from elsewhere. An example
of this would be a neighbor's lawn being full of dandelions and blowing into your wildflower planting site. This condition will
require extra preparation.
Using an herbicide on the area to kill all of the vegetation, and then working up the
soil several weeks later to form a seedbed is a great start for this type of site. If it is a relatively weed-free site, this
may be all that is needed before the native wildflowers can be planted. If you prefer not to use herbicides, the site can be
worked up several times at two week intervals until all of the existing vegetation is dead. Alternatively, a sod cutter can
be a good option for a small area, as it will remove all of the vegetation and get you to ground level in one operation. A site
that has more broadleaf weeds, or has had seeds carried in on the wind may need rototilling or herbicide treatments
for a growing season, when a fall wildflower planting can be done.
Cropped Land / Garden - This type
of area can be the easiest to get a native wildflower planting going on, particularly if the field or garden was kept weed free,
or planted with RoundUp Ready crops. In this case, working up the soil to form a seedbed, and planting at the proper time should
be all that is needed for a successful wildflower planting. If the site was not quite as weed free, several tillings several
weeks apart, or several herbicide treatments should prepare the site sufficiently. A fall planting may be a good option in this
case.
These are suggestions based upon experience, but will not guarantee a successful native wildflower planting.
There are so many variables to a wildflower planting that it is impossible to forecast the outcome. But this is part of the
adventure of planting wildflowers; it is an always-changing, dynamic landscape that always holds new surprises!
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